Thin Air
Lhasa, Tibet, China
May 31, 2009
I could not fall asleep last night because my hands and feet were cold. I finally put on some socks and Bill turned up the heat (not romantically speaking). Then I was awake on and off all night (probably because I was too warm). We are laying on 2 duvets and have an additional 2 duvets covering us. We are trying to make the rock hard bed somewhat comfortable. My mouth and nose were dry, I could not breathe and was dreaming a lot. Good news is that Bill slept well!
We woke up at 7:30 and watched the most boring sports highlight show ever - ping pong, rowing, volleyball, soccer,... Yawn!
We had an uninspired breakfast at 9:00. All of the bread was day old and the apple slices were too. I had cornflakes with peanut butter and soy milk with rock hard raisins. I ordered a fried egg and received a scrambled egg, so I just ate the raisin toast with peanut butter. Bill had scrambled eggs, juice and day old bread and donut. We both had some tea - that was good!
We learned a new Tibetan phrase that sounds like "Tashee De Lay" which means Congratulations and is a greeting.
We are going to visit 2 monasteries today - Depung Monestary and Sera Monestary. The information in our guide book does not say a lot about these places, so we figure it will only take a couple of hours and we will have the rest of the afternoon to ourselves.
Here is a bit on some of the Buddhas:
Yamantaka or Yidam - means god of death in Sanskrit and is the wrathful manifestation of Manjusri; his face looks like a bull with horns; it is a personal tantric deity; is the god of wisdom
Dipamkara - Past Buddha
Shakyamuni - Present Buddha
Maitreya - Future Buddha (aka Champa)
Tara - She is the female Vajrayana and is the Mother of Liberation.
Amaitayus - She is the Enlightened One of Immeasurable Life aka Long Life Buddha
Ushnisha Vijaya - She is the female Vairochana; she is beneficial for the attainment of a long and healthy life
*Tara, Amitayus and Vijaya make up the Longevity Triad
Vajrapani - is the protector and guide of Buddha; has a blue face
Hayagriva - child protector, has a red face, good for helping children to sleep well and have good dreams
Shri Devi - She is the principal protectress of Tibet and the Dalai Lamas; she is depicted with a blue face and red hair
Avalokiteshvara - Buddha of Compassion; aka Chenrezig; can be depicted with 1,000 arms, 1,000 eyes and 11 heads
Amitabha - is the Buddha of Infinite Light
We met Pasang at 9:30 to go to Depung which means "rice heap". It is a monastery that was founded in 1416 by Jamyang Choje. He is a Yellow Hat or a Gelugpa and is a disciple of the founder of Gelugpa, Tsong Khapa. It was the richest monastery in Tibet at one time (17th century). It had 4 colleges and 10,000 monks at the height, it now has around 770 monks.
We arrived at the monastery before 10:00 and started walking up (it is on the side of a mountain). We went to the far right where there are prayer flags and rocks that have monks carved and painted onto the rocks. One monk is Tsong Kapa, one is Jamyang Choje and I am not sure who or what the third one was. Along the way there were some caves - either for meditation or I read that nuns lived in caves here? Bill and I had fun climbing the hill and taking video and pictures. Another guide told a girl from San Diego that only locals were allowed up there. Obviously we are not locals! We also saw some sheep and a lamb hanging out sleeping and eating.
We went back down the rocks and climbed the stairs to The Garden Palace. It was built in 1530 and was the residence of the 2nd Dalai Lama. There was a statue of Yamantaka (aka Yidam) behind the Dalai Lama. There were small statues of the Yellow Hats, Avalokiteshvara, Tsong Kapa, Khedu Je and Gyeltsb Je (important Yellow Hats). There was a monk seated in a recliner style chair playing a large drum with a long bent stick and symbols between his knees. There is a statue of the 5th Dalai Lama with Yamantaka and Shri Devi behind him.
We left the building and walked down a set of stairs, while we were passing through a courtyard we witnessed a child crying over spilt yak butter...
Then we went up some stairs and up some more. We went to the Dalai Lama's Audience Room - Wangdul Ober. there was a picture of the 5th Dalai Lama, scriptures wrapped in cloth and staked between pieces of carved wood, many wood statues draped in cloth, statues of yellow hats, Tara and Avalokiteshvara.
We climbed higher to a small chapel where a monk was chanting "om" and reading one of the scriptures stored here. The scriptures here are the Kind Sutra. There is a picture and throne of one of the yellow hats, a statue of Avalokiteshvara and a ad for Karmapa Chenno (not sure what or who that is).
We went to the living area of one of the yellow hats. Then to the Audience Room of the 2nd and 5th Dalai Lamas and their thrones. The walls had murals of landscapes, people, homes, animals and Buddhas. The murals were in green, orange, red, gold and gray. It also depicted the history of Buddhism coming to Tibet.
We then went into a small dark room with white and red animals over the doorway - the red protectors. The walls are mostly black and have gold sketches of animals and dancing people with a bit of red - the black protectors. It is said that all Tibetan monasteries have a protector. The job of the protector is to get rid of inner and outer obstacles that prevent worshippers from gaining spiritual knowledge and enlightenment.
We headed out and down some stairs and were able to spot a Tsong Kapa painted carving on a rock that was much higher than the 3 we had seen earlier.
We entered an open chapel with 28 pillars and saw 1,000 Buddhas. There are 500 on the East wall and 500 on the West wall. They are small, gold faces with purple hair and are covered with robes. They are very neatly arranged in a glass cabinet too. We saw a picture of the red protector of the monastery - it is a person (did not expect that). There were the past and future Buddhas, the Long Life Buddha and the throne of the 5th and 6th Dalai Lamas. There are also statues of Tara, Amitayus and Vijaya (the Longevity Buddhas) below Shakyamuni Buddha. Some people were walking clockwise around the room and chanting.
Next we went down to a courtyard with trees, down some more, then around and up. We saw an older monk sweeping the sidewalk (in all the countries that we have been to everyone uses brooms that look like they are made out of branches) and another monk gathering up the prayer flags from the base of the flag post. Pasang told me that they change the flags twice a year - summer and winter. We just happen to be here while they are changing them. Neat!
Outside the Tsokchen Chanting Hall there are large red pillars and a mural on either side of the doors. The large beautiful murals depict the 4 guardian kings. They are Namthose who is yellow with a mongoose or umbrella (odd combo), Phakyepo is blue and carries a sword, Yulkhorsung is white with a pipa (stringed instrument) and Chenmizang who is red with a serpent, stupa or pearl.
Before entering the Chanting Hall we went into the kitchen. Outside the kitchen two monks were preparing some food. Inside there were two more monks preparing something that looked like a brown vase made of food (tofu?) and using white (tofu?) to create floweres to decorate the vase. The only thing that Pasang could explain is that it is an offering for Vijaya.
There are massive soup pots build into the ground for preparing meals for over 700 monks each day. There were copper serving pots or ladles hanging from the ceiling and large tea pots and bowls/buckets (rice) were on the shelves. The food that they were preparing was bean sprouts, potatoes, mushrooms and rice. We even spied a sleepy kitty snuggled up to the large soup pots. That would be a nice warm spot!
From there we made our way inside the Chanting Hall. It is a massive meeting room that can hold 700 people and has 180 pillars. In this room the monks read scripture and perform prayer worship. On the West wall there are murals of Buddhas on the walls. On the right there was a chapel for the black protector with a sign overhead "no women". Overhead on the pillars there is some ancient Tibetan armour and arrows. There is a statue of the 1000 armed Avalokiteshvara and books of the commandments. Around the room there are thangkas - religious paintings on brocade (tapestries)
At the rear of the Chanting Hall there is the Chapel of the Three Ages. There is a stupa of a Yellow Hat Lama from 1998 for Lhamnm Rinoch. There is a large Hayagriva at the right of the door with a red face and a large Vajrapani on the left with a blue face. There are statues of the 8 spiritual sons of Buddha standing along the walls. There are lots of stupas along the back with the past, present and future Buddhas.
Back in the main Chanting Hall there is a turning Wheel of Charma Manjushri (Wisdom) along the North wall along with a large gold Buddha. The Buddha is seated on a box with gold and jewels, he has a crown on and is surrounded by mythical looking creatures. He has a robe on and is covered with prayer scarves. There is also a statue of Tsong Khapa, the 13th Dalai Lama, the founder of the monastery, Jampang, the 3rd, 4th, 5th, 8th and 9th Dalai Lamas, Shakyamuni, and the 16 Arhats. Arhats are saints or sages in Buddhism.
Along the East wall there are long cabinets with red images of dancing female figures and animals painted on them. Along the South wall there is a large mural of different Buddhas and the red and black protectors.
The room above the Chanting Hall has Buddhas along 3 of the walls behind glass. There is a statue of King Songstan Gampo with a conch shell in his lap along with Lamas, government officials, the founder, other kings and Dalai Lamas. A monk is seated in the room. He is chanting and making tea.
In the next chapel there is a statue of the future Buddha with a crown that has small Buddhas, dragons, a lion face and jewels in it. He has a serene smile on his face and it is just his shoulders and head. The monks are chanting in here and are changing the water in the silver bowls. They also add a bit of yak butter to the water.
We headed outside and up some more stairs. We saw a couple of smaller stupas in a chapel. One stupa has a lotus flower that Shakyamuni brought from India.
In Gadong Me Tsen Chapel (that is the name of the village) there is a protector (with silver skulls in his crown), the past, present and future Buddhas and monks. People give offerings of Beer (sounded like Bali or Dali), bilk and tea.
We went to the Tantric College next. There were lions over the doorway and guardian kings around the doorway. It was a meeting room with pillars. The South wall had a mural of gods or protectors, the West wall had several Yellow Hats and 16 Arhats. The North wall had scriptures, stupas, a throne and a picture of a Lama.
In the chapel at the back there was a blue 6 armed Buddha with skulls in the crown on the left. On the right there was a blue bull headed Buddha (Galasha?). At the back there is a blue bull headed Yamantaka (personal tantric deity) with a red mask with a gold face above.
On the North wall of the meeting room there are Buddhas and scriptures. Along the East wall there are some statues of Yellow Hats.
Next we went into a tiny chapel that was wedged in between other buildings. Manjusri(Buddha of Wisdom) was carved and drawn into a rock. A monk was there giving a blessing. People would bow their heads and he would place a silver sceptre-like object and place it on their shoulders to give them a blessing.
We climbed down a few stairs and there was another, even smaller, chapel between two walls. We did not go into that one.
We explored Luosel Ling Courtyard that was a meeting room with large pillars. The South wall had a mural of the protectors, the West wall had 500 Buddhas and the E wall had the other 500 Buddhas. Along the North Wall there are statues of Yellow Hats, a throne in the middle with a picture and the throne of the 13th Dalai Lama and Buddhas on the other side. There was a small chapel with a stupas and 16 Arhats. In the next chapel has the Past and Present Buddhas and a monk was chanting in there. In the last small chapel there was a statue of the Present Buddha.
We went back into the courtyard in front of the Chanting Hall. Bill took some pictures and we were able to see the new flags that had been raised. Pasang spotted a yak. He was lying comfortably at the top of the stairs in front of the Audience Hall! Too funny!
It was after 1:00 and I think we are way off schedule. The driver is having a fit. I am guessing it should have taken us 2 hours here instead of 4 hours. We really enjoyed it though!
We went to the Tibetan Steak House for lunch again. Bill had the curry chicken and naan again with Snow Beer and a Lhasa Beer. I had masala tea, water and the yak curry set with naan, pea soup, pickled turnip or radish and steamed spinach. It was all very good.
We were taken to Sera Monastery after lunch. Sera Monastery was founded in 1419 by Sakya Yeshe.
Sera was a monastery for the Yellow Hats and was famous for their warrior monks, Dob-Doa. At one time there was 5,000 monks, today there are around 500.
We had to walk up a tree line street to the monastery. People were lined up selling their treasures and food.
We entered Sera Je where visiting monks are taught. There is a mural of the 4 guardian kings on the wall outside the building and murals on 3/4 walls on the inside. On the left is a small chapel with the past and present Buddha.
We entered a narrow chapel that was crowded with many people. There was just a small path along the outside of the room and we stood with everyone to make our way around. There was a lot of incense burning in here. When we made our way around we caught a glimpse of Hayagriva, the red faced child protector. The monks were putting black ashes or paint on the noses of the children. This is to give them good dreams and a good sleep.
In the next chapel there was a statue of the present Buddha. He was seated on a throne and surrounded by dragons. There was also the future Buddha and some scriptures. The next chapel has the future Buddha, the 1000 armed Buddha and the Buddha of Infinite Light. The next chapel has scriptures, the present Buddha draped with white scarves and Tara.
We re-entered the main hall and saw statues of Yellow Hats. One statue had lots of money around it, it is Sakya Yeshe, the founder of the monastery. There is also a throne of the 13th Dalai Lama and people were coming up and placing their foreheads on the throne. There are also some stupas and a 1000 armed Buddha. I purchased a black and white wool bracelet (yak?) for 5 yuan ($1). It is supposed to be a symbol of Buddhism.
When we went outside the gong started to call monks to debate. We went to an outer courtyard with crushed stone. We sat around the outside with many other tourists. We were all waiting for the monks to arrive at 3:00. They perform debates with ritualized gestures of clapping their hands while stomping one foot when they make a point to their audience. The person holding the discussion while a couple other monks are seated on red cushions on the stones. It was quite neat to see and we have some good video of their animated discussions.
On our way out we saw a monk blessing a new car for someone.
We did not see any more of Sera Monastery. We were told that the buildings are closed while the debates occur. I think we were taken out because of the schedule. Too bad, I think it would have been good to see some more.
We were taken to Norbulingka Park. It is the summer palace of the Dalai Lama. It was founded by the 7th Dalai Lama in 1755 and has been expanded since.
There is a nicely maintained public park outside which is in better shape than the grounds on the inside. The grass is very tall inside and there are lots of weeds. They have a lot of sidewalks torn up right now. It looks like they are updating the water pipes.
Kelsang Palace had a screen with a dragon at the entrance that you had to walk around to enter the room. A monk was in the room chanting while we looked around. There were thangkas with Buddha on them overhead. There were beer offerings for the 7th Dalai Lama in front of his throne at the back of the room. Behind the throne there were statues of Yellow Hats. There was also statues of the Longevity Triad Buddhas.
We walked through the park where people were having picnics among the trees. We walked past a lot of construction and a zoo.
We went to Jainsel Palace. It was built in 1922 by special builders, the Jainsel. In the middle of the room there were carriages that had been used by Dalai Lamas. One was used in 1956 when he visited England.
There were murals of Buddhas along 3 walls. The North wall has thrones of the 13th and 14th Dalai Lamas surrounded by statues of Buddhas. The room was large and very cool (temp wise) and had pillars with carvings.
We walked through some more construction and past a sign that said "Have a Dog". I think it should state "Beware of Dog". We saw another great sign that said "Construction of the company in this. Please note that the safety of tourists". I have no idea what that is supposed to say! LOL!
We crossed over a most with ducks, fish and geese (and a dead goose and a dead fish) to get to Tunzin Palace. There was a statue of the 1000 armed Buddha, scriptures on the walls, a stuffed tiger that had once been alive, and gifts of milk, beer and tea in front of the crown of skulls that represented the Medicine Buddha. On the outer walls there is a mural of the protector kings and there are statues of the lions that are mythical protectors (one has a ball and it looks like the other one is mauling a baby lion). We found out that it is known as Lions of Fo in China - the male has a ball and the female has a cub. Fo means Buddha in Chinese. In Tibet the guardian lions are known as the Snow Lions.
We crossed back over the moat. In the middle there are covered pavilions.
We went to the New Summer Palace that was built in 1956 by the 14th Dalai Lama. It has a painting of the protectors - a Lion and a Tiger at the bottom of the staircase. The first room we went into on the 2nd floor had a mural of the King, Buddha and Potala Palace. There is also a mural of monkeys which tells the legend of the history of the Tibetan people. Here is the Coles Notes version of the story - a monkey hooked up with a demon after receiving a blessing from Avalokiteshvara. They had 6 sons and left them to grow up in the forest. They multiplied into 500 and did not have enough food to eat. Avalokitesvara helped out again and provided five grains that produced much bounty. They were able to feed themselves and as a result they lost their tails and hair and eventually formed a civilization.
There are also a statue of the future Buddha. Along another wall with a mural of the story of the building of Potala Palace, an important meeting of the 14th Dalai Lama and Tunzin Palace with the moat. There is a thankgas of the bull headed Buddha too.
We were able to go through the reading rooms of the 14th Dalai Lama. There was a smaller and a larger room with sofas. There was a gift of a picture of kittens from the King of England for the 13th Dalai Lama over the sitting room door. There was also a statue of some Buddhas.
The Dalai Lama's living room had a radio (one in a big wooden cabinet) from the King of India, a cabinet and a sofa.
The throne room of the 14th Dalai Lama had a chandelier from India above the gold throne. There were murals that included the 13th Dalai Lama and his teachers, some Yellow Hats and the 7th Dalai Lama. Down the hall was the Dalai Lama's bathroom. It needs a bit of work to bring it into the 21st century...
We were also able to go through the Dalai Lama's mama's meeting room. There is a picture of the Compassion Buddha in her room.
In the hallway on the way to the stairs there was a painting of a circle with circles inside and divided by squares (I know, not a good explanation). It is the symbol of the Tibetan King.
As we left and waiting for Pasang to chat with his buddy I was thinking that it is kinda sad that we can be here and the Dalai Lama can not...
We saw a gray parakeet fly by and a few other birds while we were at the park. Bill was goofing around and jumping on a hose that was watering the grounds. Around the tenth time he made the hose pop off the spout and water was spewing everywhere. OK, Pasang, time to go!
I asked Pasang to take a photo of us in front of the Palace. It is pretty funny, when we have the technology, Bill will post it for you.
The last place we visited was the Shabtan Lhakong. It had a screen with two fish at the entrance. There were statues of the Longevity Triad on the East and West walls. In the center of the room there was a sitting area and 2 elephant statues. Along the North wall there was 1000 Buddhas, 16 Arhats and the present Buddha in the middle.
On the way out we saw three guys playing a game with dice, shells and coins. They were really into it. It looked like fun!
We went back to the hotel and I used the internet for 1 1/2 hours. Bill hung out in the room nursing his headache. He is feeling so badly that he could not finish a can of coke (well, almost could not).
We walked to a walk through the Muslim area and went to the New Mandala Restaurant near Johkang Temple. We went to the roof top where Bill banged his head, that should be good for the headache, but went back down to the second floor because it was pretty breezy.
We ordered a pot of sweet tea (masala is better), Lhasa Beer, sizzling yak with rosemary and gravy, crispy noodles and fries, a huge order of delicious yak spring rolls (lettuce, carrot, noodles - lightly fried/baked) and naan. Since Bill was not eating, I did my duty and ate almost all of it! Why do I keep eating all of his food too?!
Bill went to videotape the pilgrims while I finished all the food. Some monks were a different style of hat and I want to get it on film. While he was gone a mangy tom cat showed up looking for food. He jumped up on Bill's chair, looked around and then laid down! A few minutes later, he jumped down and walked away. LOL! When Bill returned I told him that I could find another dinner partner if he did not want to eat with me!
I dropped my pen on the floor. UGH! I have developed a habit of dropping things on the floor since we have arrived in China. It never happened before and only happens now because people spit everywhere. UGH!
One strange thing that we have seen in China is the talking calculators. They are so bizarre!
We walked to the park in front of Potala. It is after dark (9:00) and the lights are on. The is music on and a dancing water show. It is a beautiful site and Bill took some good pics.
On our way back to the room we were passed by cyclos that have bells. Every time I hear them I think of Christmas because they sound like Santa's bells!
When we were close to the hotel two boys said "hello" and waved. I called "hello" back and blew them kisses several times. They laughed at first, (I don't think they had seen that before) but then reciprocated. It was so cute!
We went to sleep in our rock hard small bed!