Buddha of Suberbia
Lhasa, Tibet, China
May 29, 2009
I did not sleep well until after 3:00 and Bill did not sleep well from 3:00 - 5:00, but I think we did manage to get enough sleep. I think that the uber hard beds do not agree with us.
We were up around 7:30 and went to breakfast. We shared an omelette and toast. I had a bit of cereal, some apple and some jam on my toast. Bill had some bread and bacon and a slice of apple. He filled up on orange juice!
Bill is watching an NBA game and I am catching up on the blog and email in the lobby.
Pasang met us at 10:30. Our ticket for Potala Palace is at 11:00. We had to wait for our driver and then drove in front of the Palace and then back to the side of the Palace. We are grouped with other tourists and their guides. We all have to show our passports before we can enter on the East side of the Palace. We went through security and had to get rid of the two waters that I had just bought.
Potala Palace is built on Marpo Hill at 3700 meters above sea level. It was originally constructed by Tibet's 33rd king, King Songtsen Gampo, in the 7th century. In Sanskrit the word potala means "mythical mountains".
The Dalai Lama belongs to the Yellow Hat Sect of Buddhism - Gelugpa. It was founded by Tsong Khapa in 1407 and absorbed the sect of Kahdampa at the time. There is an emphasis on the study of scripture, ethics, meditation and discipline. People can make offerings of food, yak butter for the lamps, they can chant prayers, use prayer wheel, perform pilgrimages, meditate (can use mantras) and mudras (hand gestures).
The fifth Dalai Lama, Lozsang Gyatso, started the expansion of the Potala Palace in 1645. Today there are two main sections - the White Palace for political affairs (rebuilt in 1645) and the Red Palace for religious affairs (rebuilt in 1693). Today the Palace has 13 floors, 999 rooms (we can only see 15)and is 130,000 square meters.
The 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso, is a reincarnation of Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara (compassion). He had lived at Potala Palace until he was exiled in 1959.
We walked through a lower courtyard where all of the buildings are painted white. Soldier and police officers live in this area. In the upper areas is where the monks live. We showed our passports again and began walking up many stone stairs and ramps along the outside. We had to cross through a doorway, up more stairs and wait for our group. This Pasang bought our tickets and we now do not have to stick with the group.
We entered the Eastern Courtyard (Dheyangshar) and saw women singing and banging sticks. It is something they do when grinding flour to pass the time and make the task seem easier.
We entered the White Palace. There are three sets of stairs, the middle set is exclusively for the Dalai Lama. There were several murals here - the building of the Palace in the 7th century, the journey of the princess, the former Red Palace and an inscription of rules for monks above the hand prints of the 5th Dalai Lama.
The first room was the Eastern Sunshine Apartment was used by the 13th Dalai Lama. There were statues of the 13th Dalai Lama, Varjapani and other Buddhas. It was used as a meeting room for the 13th and 14th Dalai Lamas. There were lots of carpets and tapestries. Some tapestries were used to make chandeliers. People have placed lots of white prayer scarves and money here.
Next we went to the Chamber of the Taken Paltsek (Everlasting Summit) or Brightening Room, where the Dalai Lama hosted important guests. There are bronze images of Tara, Amitayus and Vijaya. These three make up the Longevity Triad.
The Protector Deity Chapel or Chapel of Six Armed Avalokiteshvara was used by the Dalai Lama for worship. Mahakala is the protectress. There is also a Shri Devi and state oracle (Neichung).
The Chimig Namgyal or Everlasting Victory (Over Death) Room is where we enter the Red Palace. It was the sleeping quarters and study room for the Dalai Lama. The statues are of the Longevity Triad.
Many of the rooms have yak butter and incense burning. This aids with meditation.
On the roof of homes there are colourful prayer flags. One monasteries there is only black and gold which is not allowed on homes.
The Chapel of Maitreya Buddha (the Jamkang) has many Kangyur and Dhangyur scriptures in boxes in niches in the walls (we see this in many rooms). This was the chamber for the 8th Dalai Lama and now is a chapel. On the right there is the Longevity Triad and on the left is Samanbhadra (Essence of the earth) Buddha. Maitreya is very beautiful and peaceful looking. Her cloth skirt has peacocks on it and she has a large golden crown. There is a picture of the 8th Dalai Lama.
The Loilang Khang or Mandala Room has three Mandalas - Guhya Samaja, Chakra Samvara and Yamantaka. They were founded by the 7th Dalai Lama. They are replicas of palaces of the gods and are made of gold and jewels. They are said to be the embodiment of the path to enlightenment. They have 4 sides and 4 gates.
Sasum Namgyal - best of three realms (Victory over the Triple World) room has many small Buddhas and many boxes filled with scriptures or prayer books. The main statue is the Eleven Faces of Avalokiteshvara. The sculpture was made in 1903 by the 13th Dalai Lama. There is a tablet with 4 languages - Chinese, Tibetan, Mongolian and Manchurian - it is a wish for a long life for the Chinese Emperor. There are statues of yellow hat monks. The was coloured and white swastika (from Sanskrit meaning lucky or auspicious object). One guide made it sound like it was originated from the ancient Bon religion that Tibetans used to practice.
The Cheme Dedan Khil Room or Hall of Kadham Kyil (Eternal Happiness) has a throne of the 6th Dalai Lama. This used to be his living quarters. There are lots of Buddhas in this large room, one is a Longevity Buddha. There is an 11 headed Avalokiteshvara, the goddess of concentration, and 35 Devas of confessions.
The Lama Lhakang or Prominent Master's Chapel has many images of wise people. One of whom is Head Master Tsong Khapa, the 6th Dalai Lama. There are also clay statues of "yellow hats" - 7th through the 12th Dalai Lamas. There is also a White Tara (she who saves - compassion goddess).
Serdhong Tashi Woibar Khang is the Chapel of the 7th Dalai Lama's tomb. It is the first of several tombs that we will see. They are all large gold mutli-level tombs that have many jewels - turquoise, pearls, agates and diamonds. This one was built in 1757.
Phagpa Lhakang or the Chapel of Avalokiteshvara is the Enlightened Chapel. This chapel was built in the 7th century by King Songstan Gampo. There is a sandstone Avalokiteshvara and overhead it says "Field of Blessedness and Wonderful Fruit or Blissful Nourishing Miraculous Fruits" and other special relics from different time periods.
The Chapel of the 8th Dalai Lama's (the Glorious Radiance) Stupa Tomb was built in 1805.
The Chapel of the 9th Dalai Lama (Beloved Triple Worlds) has a statue of the 9th Dalai Lama and his tomb. It was built in 1815.
Chapel of Kala Chakra (Solid Mandal of the Wheel of Time) or Dukhor Lhakang. It is a large gold model of a building that is 109 meters square. There are 734 statues around it.
Thupwang Lhakang or the Chapel of Shakyamuni of Loving Kindness. It was the 7th Dalai Lama's living room. The Shakamuni Buddha (Guatama Buddha) lived in India during the 5th century. He is the central statue and is surrounded by his eight prominent disciples.
Tsepack Lhakang or the Chapel of Amitayus (Long Living Chapel) has nine Amitayus (gods of longevity). There was a neat mural of a god with skulls and horses on his head. There is also a white Tara and a Green Tara on the left and right. It also has the throne of the 8th Dalai Lama and murals of the 8th Dalai Lama, Avalokiteshvara's story, Hiyagriva (horse headed one) and more.
Zegya Lhakang (Life Story of Buddha) has 16 Arhats in sandalwood surrounded by mountains, the 5th Dalai Lama in medicinal clay, the Buddha in medicinal clay, the 5th and 7th Dalai Lama in bronze and the life of the Buddha.
Chogyal Drupuk (Religious King Cave) dates back to the 7th century. It has King Songsten Gampo and his wives, prince and ministers.
Kungsang Jedrokang (Good to All Chapel) or Chapel of Smanta Bhadra has Shakamuni Buddha. It is flanked by a 1,000 armed Avalokiteshvara and the 5th Dalai Lama.
The Bell-metal Buddha's Chapel has small stupas and Buddhas from Nepal, Benaras, Tibet and India.
Lamring Lhakang (Chapel of Stages on the Path to Enlightenment) has a silver statue of Tsong Khapa (the founder).
Opposite is the Western Audience Hall which is very large and has many tapestries and tapestry chandeliers. It has the story of the 5th Dalai Lama on the walls.
Rigzin Lhakang (Knowledge Holder Chapel) or Chapel of the True Word has a main silver statue of Badma Sambhava. There are large stupas in front of the 8 seated knowledge holders. There are Kagyur commandments written on black and gold in the prayer boxes in the walls.
Serdhong Zamling Gyenjikhang has the 5th Dalai Lama's (Sole Ornament of the World) golden stupa tomb. There are other stupas that have a seated Dalai Lama or Buddha in them at the top. At the ends there are tombs of the 10th and 12th Dalai Lamas in silver.
Trunggrab Lhakang (Chapel of Holy Born) or Chapel of Sacred Succession has the 5th Dalai Lama in silver, Shakamuni Buddha in gold, the 1st and 4th Dalai Lamas, the 8 Medicine Buddhas (Bhaisajyguru), the 11th Dalai Lama's tomb and kagymrs (religious books).
Did you get all that? I don't think I did!
During all of this we headed up and down many stairs, through large wooden doors with large handles, the rooms were painted with many bright colours, there were many tapestries, many of the rooms were small and dark and only light by yak butter lamps and the incense smells different here. It was very unique and hard to compare to anything else we have seen before. It is certainly one of the most impressive things we have seen too.
We walked down stairs and a ramp around the outside and back of the complex. We spent 2 hours there and it went by really fast. Bill was disappointed that we did not get to go to the rooftop. We tried to ask our guide about it, but did not get anywhere. To make matters worse, Bill rolled his foot on a rock and broke his sandal. He is not a happy camper right now!
Our guide is a really nice guy and since he was a monk for 12 years, I am sure that he has lots of knowledge. Unfortunately we are having a hard time understanding his English and he is having a hard time understanding us. Most of the information we learned today was from a brochure we bought and the signs in each room.
We were driven to a restaurant that was nearby, Tibet Steak House. Bill ordered chicken butter masala with naan and 2 Lhasa Beers. I had yak meatball stew (thin noodles, some greens, 2 kinds of mushrooms and onions in a broth), 2 masala teas and water. The food was really good. I think it was the best butter chicken we have ever had. It was spicy and fragrant, but not too hot. We only had to pay for our extra beverages as lunch is already included in our tour.
I have finally figured out my hair stick from Lijiang today. It is helping my out-of-control hair situation a little.
Both Bill and I are feeling much better today. We are not feeling so raw and tired, like yesterday.
We were dropped off near the temple, but had to walk part of the way. Jokhang Temple was built by the same King who built Potala in the 7th century. It is said that the Nepalese princess that married King Songsten Gampo brought a Buddha, Akshobhya, to Tibet. His other wife, a Chinese princes wanted the temple to be built in Lake Wothang (guess women did not get along back then either, for this is going to be a challenge). It is said that the lake was filled by a scared goat (Ra in Tibetan). Interestingly Lhasa was originally known as Rasa, therefore "Goat". Another story goes that the Chinese princess detected that there was a female demon living on the site and temple was built there to keep the demon underground.
There are 2 flag poles out front that represent battle flags, but have become a symbol of peace. There are 2 large incense burners that are for burning junipers. There is also a stele from 822 with the terms of the Sino-Tibetan treaty guaranteeing mutual respect of the borders of the 2 nations. Many people are praying and laying prostrate here. They are also turning the giant prayer wheel.
The front entrance of Jokhang was closed, so we went into another door, just south of the main entrance. The temple is not very big, but we saw many things here. We walked into a courtyard and Pasang bought our tickets. We walked into the main courtyard and then into the inner sanctuary. There was 2 large, beautiful Buddhas that dominate the space. There was lots of places for monks to sit, it is a meeting area.
Along the walls there are murals and small rooms (chapels). Most of them are enclosed. The first one we looked at was the Chapel of Avalokiteshvara with 1,000 arms and 1,000 eyes (on the arms). It is the compassionate Buddha and is very beautiful. There are 11 heads on top too and is covered in jewels.
We saw the Blessing Buddha Chapel, then stairs leading to Tsong Khapa (the founder of the Yellow Hats) Chapel. This chapel dates to the 7th century.
Vajrapani is the Bodhisattva of Energy (he has a green face).
There is a Chapel of Long Life Buddha. He has a crown and has jewels. Avalokiteshvara standing beside him.
There is a Temple of Songstan Gampo and his 2 wives.
A Chapel of Shakyamuni Buddha - The Middle Way. He is surrounded by gold dragons and lamps. He is seated and covered with jewels.
The Tibetan doorways have carvings and smooth areas. People touch the doorways because it is said to help them to find lost things.
The Chapel of Tri-Tri Jampa is the Maitreya Buddha.
There is a mound that reminds me of an ant hill or a well. It has a small opening at the top. People listen to it like they would a sea shell.
The medicine Buddha is painted on the wall. It is just a golden face with blue hair. There is no body, arms or legs. It is surrounded by a frame like a shadow box and has candles in it.
Around this area some of the glass enclosures were open and men were repainting some of the statues.
There was Tara, the Longevity Buddha and Vijaya together. They were gold, robed and had jewels.
The Chapel of Tsepakme Yabyum had a statue of him with a statue of a person kneeling and praying to him.
Chapel of the Scared Goat and Maitreya (Jampa Che Shi). We could not enter this chapel and could not see the goat because he was along the side. This refers to the possible location of the temple as I mentioned above.
There was a painting of Avalokiteshvara and it had a picture of eyes with a knife in the middle. It is a Tibetan custom and is for healing of people with poor vision ('hthink that was what Pasang was trying to tell me).
There was a mural of Potata Palace. It does not appear as it does today because it was a much smaller complex in the 7th century. Many Dalai Lamas have expanded the palace since then. Beside it is a mural of a lake (the location chosen for this temple). It shows the scared goat and people bringing building materials.
We went outside and did Circumambulation (to walk around). It stems from Hindu rituals which is done in a clockwise motion. In Buddhism (or at least here) it is also done clockwise and you touch the prayer wheels that surround the inner sanctum. There are murals on either side of the prayer wheels that depict Shakyamuni's life and history. The prayer wheel itself has 6 symbols (or syllables) that make up a mantra or prayer. the number 6 is significant for the 6 cycles of existence (they believe in reincarnation) - celestials, humans, denizens, animals, hungry ghost, hells.
We went up to the first level and the roof top. We were able to have a great view of Potala Palace. Bill and I tried many times to get a good photo of the 2 of us, but our guide and 2 others were not cooperating! Bill did get some good pictures of the temple and palace though!
We walked through Barkhor (around Jokhang Temple) with Pasang. It is a pilgrimage route of kora that goes clockwise. It is the holiest pilgrimage since the 7th century. We looked at some of the stalls - turquoise, prayer wheels and flags, clothes, bells, bracelets, cowboy hats, furry hats,... but did not buy anything.
We parted with Pasang and headed back to the hotel. Bill stayed in the room and I decided to get a jump on this blog.
After 7:00 we headed back toward Barkhor. We took a different route and went through some different stalls/market. The women have shear head scarves on and the men have straw hats or small white hats on. We don't know if it is a different type of Buddhism or if they are possibly Muslim.
People are selling fruits and veggies like radish and turnip (as well as the typical things). They are selling dried noodles, dried legs of goat, other dried meat, yak meat with fur still on the leg, herbs and ground herbs and many things that I do not know what it is.
We ended up at the South East corner of Barkhor. At this time many, many people are doing a pilgrimage. We can see them from the second floor of Makye Ame Restaurant. Makye Ame means - holy mother, pure lady and beautiful ancient poem (by Dalai Lama the 6th).
We shared beef slices roasted on stone with rice. The meat was very tender and spicy. It was wrapped in foil with a black stone, onions and dried chilli peppers. I had water and Bill had Tibetan Barley Beer.
We went to the other side of the temple to Sea Touching Snow Mountain Bar and had a Lhasa Beer. Bill won a game and was a sore loser, so we drank up and walked back to the hotel to use the internet.
We went to bed after 11:00. I hope we sleep well so we can enjoy two more monasteries tomorrow!