Getting to Know Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai, Thailand
March 26, 2009
We went down for breakfast and are surprised to find that we have a choice between 3 set menus (how nice) - Continental, American, Thai (rice and pork soup) or Cornflakes with fruit. I had corn flakes that I added peanut butter and bananas to. It was very yummy!
We walked through the old gates to the ancient city (Tha Pae) and walked around a bit. We found a nice internet cafe with the nicest bathroom I have seen in a LONG time - it was a Western toilet with hand soap and small towels to dry your hands. WOW!
We hired a tuk tuk to got to the Chiang Mai National Museum as it is out of town a bit and not even shown on our map. We were concerned when he said that we had to take the Super Highway (maybe we will be Super Killed?), but it turned out fine and did not take too long to get there. It is not a popular spot for taxis or tuk tuks, so he is going to wait for us to bring us back to the city center. I feel like we are on the Amazing Race! LOL!
The focus of the museum is the history and culture of this area. This area was known as the Lan Na Kingdom. The first section was the natural and cultural background of Lan Na (Lanna) Kingdom. They had a few pre-historical and geological displays that we did not spend much time looking at.
The second and third area depicted the history of the Kingdom from it's beginning until it's demise. It was a thriving Kingdom from 1296 - 1558. It was sacked by the Burmese and was under their rule until 1774. In 1774, the people were treated badly by the Burmese and asked Siam to intercede. Siam did finally eradicate Burma from this region in 1804. At that time it officially became a colony of Siam. This began the period of Restoration for Chiang Mai.
There were 5 stages of art/architectural influence for Lanna. The first period during the time, from Haripunchai to Lanna, was influenced by Burma and India. The pagodas were built with square cross-sections with Buddhas in niches or octagonal shaped with 8 Buddhas in niches around the pagoda or bell-shaped cross-sections with Buddha on top with 4 smaller pagodas at the corners.
The second period was from 1356 - 1441 and was mainly influenced by Sukhothai. An example of this style are pagodas with elephants.
The third period from 1441 - 1525 was known as the Lanna Golden Age. Sukhothai art, Ayutthaya and U-Thong (Payao, Nan and Fang Art) influences can be noted. Buddha images were in polychrome.
The forth period 1525 - 1774 is not very impressive (during Burma rule). The statues are wooden instead of bronze. Most buildings and statues are less elaborate and there is a lot of copying from previous periods. It is a period of decline.
The fifth period 1782 - 1939 is a period of restoration and revival. There is a Burmese and Rattanakosin influence. Thai Yai craftsmen were involved during this period and it was the beginning of Western influence in the area.
The next section of the museum talked about trade and economy. The money shown is very different (round or long flat coins). Teak and other types of wood were traded along with agricultural products such as rice.
There was a section about modern life that had some information about some of the more important Wats in Chiang Mai. There was also information about food of this area. One traditional Northern dish is called: Ka Mon Veen Nam Ngeow (did not give a description). Popular snacks are: crushed nuts, soy bean, sweet potato, corn and mango.
Traditional craft or products of this area are: mulberry (Sa) paper (for umbrellas), silver, lacquer ware, wicker, wood carving, and 3 types of pottery - pots, flower pots and water jars.
There was also a section in the museum about the development of the art style and the history of art in Thailand.
Overall, it was a very good museum. It was certainly worth 100 bhat. We learned a lot, it was cool inside and the translation/presentation was well done.
Our tuk tuk driver was still there for us, so we chose a restaurant in the center of the old city and he took us there. Too bad it was closed! So we walked back a block and chose a local place. We had chicken pad thai and pork pad thai, both were very good. I enjoyed a refreshing Thai iced tea without milk (very good).
Since there are supposed to be as many or more Wats here than Bangkok (over 300), we are going to check out a couple. We could see Wat Phra Singh from where we were eating lunch. It has all of the typical Lanna style features - colourful frescos and intricate wood design.
Wat Phra Singh was established in 1345. The first building we entered had a dedication to a monk who has recently passed away. There were a lot of pictures of him and chairs set up for the upcoming burial ceremony.
On the grounds there is a library. It is decorated with stone carvings of creature and 16 angels. The railing of the stairs are decorated with a multi-animal creature with the head of a dragon or lion.
There was also an area for sitting among some trees. Posted to the trees are Buddhist sayings that remind me of fortune cookies. One example is: "to see a man is to know his face, but not to know his thoughts". I agreed with many of them, but this one I disagreed with. I don't think it is normally very difficult to know a man's thoughts. It is usually about - food, drink or sex (or a combination of 2 or more). Am I right?!
My favourite spot was where the frescos were, Wihan Lai Kham (guilded hall). They were incredible and most of them are still in very good shape. I has scenes from daily life. They were very beautiful.
We walked up the street back toward our hotel to go to Wat Phan Tao. There is a large old teak wihaan (sanctuary). There is also a very large (partially restored) temple that has 4 large Buddhas on each side, railings that are large scary dragon-like creatures and there used to be elephants all the way around. Now there are only elephants on 2 sides.
We also saw a reclining Buddha and three other Buddhas. The one was large and had dark hair. It must have some Indian influence because it reminded us of Leeno!
One our way back we stopped for a shake. It was very good - banana and peanut butter!!!
We stopped at one travel agency (there are hundreds here) and booked a two-day adventure that includes going to an elephant sanctuary, staying overnight at a Karen (traditional hill) village and rafting on bamboo for the 30th and 31st. Very cool! We also booked a van that will take us to the Laos border on April fools day!
We went back to the internet cafe to do some things.... I am done blogging, so I am taking a look at Ronald's (from the boat trip) video blogs. They are hilarious!
We went to the Jerusalem Falafel for dinner. Bill wanted the hummus and beef without beef with lamb. Ordering off the menu in another language is difficult at best. He did get hummus with lamb, but it was ground, seasoned lamb. I don't think that is what he had in mind.
I ordered beef kabobs (does not mean the same thing as in Windor, it was more like ground beef in a ball, I would call that a falafel). The sauce was like thousand island and not tatziki. The one I had in Bangkok was much better and much cheaper. The menu said that sandwiches/pitas came with salad and I requested a greek salad. Well, I ended up with a whole salad, plus my sandwich. All in all, it was pretty good, but it ended up being an expensive meal (around $22). We are going to be in for some serious sticker shock when we get back home.
We did a quick change in the room and headed to Wat Shri Khong for the last part of the monk Q&A and the evening meditation lesson. Unfortunately, it was the wrong Wat! So, we decided to go and check out the Night Bazaar instead. Along the way we stopped at Warort Market - mostly fruit, veggies and food stands. Too bad we just ate dinner because everything looks delicious. I am going to have to come back for some grilled bananas, fresh strawberries and corn-on-the-cob for sure.
Not too far from there is Anusarn Market/Night Bazaar. Here there is more clothing, jewellery, pictures, postcards, wood carvings, silk scarves, bedspreads and table runners, statues, lanterns and outdoor lights. Inside there are food stalls that is more like a mall food court, there is a traditional dancing demonstration and a sound stage with a singer.
During the course of the evening we purchased many things - a mango wood vase, a funky t-shirt for me, a Homer t-shirt and a Boss shirt for Bill, red tea so that I can make Thai iced tea when I get home (I am addicted to the stuff), multigrain bar (tastes a bit like brittle) and banana chips (there were two types - sweet and sweeter, I chose sweet). We also stopped at 7/11 and picked up water, pop and Lipton red tea iced tea (it does not taste the same at all, it tastes like fruit punch - yuck). AND - wait for it - we found some more peanut candy (Dragon Brand). It was the candy that we were given in Inle Lake. They are sooooo good!! I have looked everywhere for these things! What a score! One thing I have learned while travelling, if you find something you like, keep eating/drinking it while you can, you may never find it again (I miss the tomato salad from Bagan, good thing I bought a cookbook while we were there and I can make it at home).