Knowledge of the gods
Siem Reap, Cambodia
April 17, 2009
Up at 4 am, in the shower, nibble on some fruit and pack it up.
We are out the door and in a van at 5 am and on our way to the airport.
We checked in and 2 people are closely examining our passports (they were soaked by the tubing in Vieng Vang) and it is difficult to make out the Laos Visa stamps. Bill is blaming Pi Mai for the problem and we are able to explain and point out all the required information.
We go through the same thing with 2 more people at security, but are able to keep going. We have not officially "departed" yet, so hopefully we do not get held up somewhere else.
The plane departed at 6:30 am and we touched down in Paske, Laos at 8 am. We were able to pass customs inspection and get our departure stamp. We were back on the plane at 8:30 and in Siem Reap, Cambodia at 9:30.
The International Airport is gorgeous, it is like they actually want foreign visitors. The customs officers have computers and we had our photo snapped when we arrived (very high tech!). Bill took some money out and was given USD. Guess they do not use riel here after all. Bill did lose $5 on changing kip to USD though.
We hired a tuk tuk for $4 instead of a cab for $7. We checked into Tara Hotel. It is the nicest place we have stayed to date and the most like a Western Hotel. The lobby is beautiful and bell hops open the doors. There is a reception and concierge. There are lots of comfortable chairs and sofas to sit on and 3 free internet terminals. They have a beautiful pool with a waterfall, a restaurant and a lounge, a gym and a sauna.
Our room is large, modern and clean. It is the first time that we can not see the toilet from bed. There is a small table with 2 chairs, plus a desk and chair. There is also a bench by the door. They brought a fruit plate for us on the first day to welcome us and we get 2 bottles of water every day. The bathroom has a tub and a shower with a glass door, a large counter and a hair dryer. We are going to get spoiled! Bill was able to see baseball highlights and they were showing an episode of Martha Stewart. Maybe we have returned to the West?!
We walked to the National Museum and stopped at KFC (Khmer Fried Chicken) / Suki for lunch. We shared 1/2 a roasted chicken with rice, green tomatoes, carrots, basil, cabbage and cucumber with Angkor Beer and water. The beer was expensive (25000 kip vs 10,000 - 12,000 in Laos).
The museum was across the street. It is a newer, beautiful facility. We watched an intro video and then started our audio guides that provided us with some very good information. The displays were excellent and the information around the displays were very useful. We learned a lot of great information to prepare us for what we will be seeing during the next few days.
In Sanskrit Angkor is Nagara which means "holy city". Wat (temple where pagoda is added) or Toch means "small city". Angkor Wat = small holy city. It is the largest Religious monument in the world and was built by King Suryavarman II from 1113 - 1150. This king dedicated the temple to Vishnu and it represents the universe and cosmos. The centre is the mountain of the gods, Mount Meru; the five towers are the 5 peaks of Mount Meru The moats and outer gallery walls are oceans and mountains of the cosmos. The stones used to make the temple came from 50 kms away (today in Cambodia that would take 2 hours, can't imagine how they did it back then). Most temples face East, but this one faces West (death), so it is believed to be built for a burial site. The moat that surrounds Angkor Wat is 200 m wide and is still filled with water (many do not have water any longer). It later became a Buddhist monument during the 15th century when Buddhism was introduced to Cambodia.
Some information about the gods:
Vishnu - preserves the universe, has 4 or 8 arms and carries a disk, conch (shell), mace and earth (ball); rides on Garuda (1/2 bird, 1/2 man)
Shiva - destroyer of the universe, has the crescent moon and 3rd eye, carries drum, flash, rosary, human skull, snare; weapon is trident, is seen with garlanded snake and his mount is the sacred bull Nandi
Indra - King of Gods and represents the East; his weapon is Vajra (thunderbolt) and he lives in the clouds of Mount Meru
Yoma - god of death, 2 dogs, 4 eyes and rides a buffalo; is the clerk for Chitragupta and records good and back actions (like St Peter at the Pearly Gates)
Rama - 7th Avatar (incarnation) of Vishnu
Krishn - most popular Avatar
Agni - Sanskrit meaning "fire"; is the god of fire
Varuna - god of rain and celestial ocean
Surya - chief solar deity
Nirrti - regent of South West
Angkor Thom is the last capital of ancient Khmer. It is 9 square km, has a moat 100 m wide and was built in the late 12th century (and beyond). The city walls are 7 - 8 m high and 3 km long. It represents the universe and contains Bayon which symbolizes the link between heaven and earth. The walls are the mountain ranges around Mount Meru and the moat is the cosmic ocean. This temple was built by Jayavarman VII. He also built many other things including 102 hospitals. His temples have both Hindu and Buddhist influence which indicates his Religious tolerance.
More interesting stuff:
Bodhisattva - has delayed enlightenment to help others
Avalokiteshvara is the Bodhisattava of compassion and is the most popular in Mahayan Buddhism; holds a rosary, flask, sacred book, lotus; same as Lokeshvara; shown with Buddha on hair bun
Garuda - 1/2 bird, 1/2 man; ridden by Vishnu (the supreme god); enemy of Naga (multi-headed serpent)
Lions - guard temples
Naga - serpent god of water; lives underground or in water; has cobra hood
Bull - vehicle for Shiva; Nandi
Elephant - least important animal
Makara - mythical sea animal with a reptile body, big jaw, a snout that elongates into a trunk; sinks ships
Turtle - "Kurma" incarnation of Vishnu; supports Mt Meru during the Churning of the Ocean of Milk to prevent penetration through the universe
Trishula - trident; 3 headed spear; important male symbol associated with Shiva; usually on top of the central tower of Khmer temples to represent Mt Meru
Apsara - female dancing deities that are a model for traditional court dancers and ballet of today; During the struggle of the Churning of the Ocean Milk 100,000 supremely beautiful female figures were churned up
When we picked up our bags the guy asked us what "Roots" was (our camera bag). We explained that it was a brand name and then Bill explained that it also meant the underground part of a plant. The guy was very impressed that we visited the museum before we went to tour the Wats.
After the museum we went to the museum mall. At the bookstore Bill bought the Eyewitness for Vietnam/Angkor Wat. We had a real croissant, unsweetened black iced tea and vanilla and chocolate mint iced cream at the Blue Pumpkin cafe.
We walked back to the room to get the knapsack and then walked downtown. We went through a park, walked along the canal, past the Palace, past many shops, spas, bars and restaurants. We went into the old market and a few touristy shops.
We had an Angkor draft, soda and peanuts at Le Grand Cafe. It was on the second level overlooking the busy street. We saw a Chrysler 300 go by with aftermarket grill and wheels with police plates. Strange! Bill was planning our temple visits and I looked through the brochures that I had picked up (have not seen these in SE Asia yet). On the street a young guy was juggling, laying on glass, doing slight of hand, playing with fire and jumping through a hoop of knives. He did it all!
We walked down to the new market and came close to finding a lens store. Both markets mostly had clothes, souvenirs and books.
We crossed the canal on Wat Bo bridge and went to Viroth's for dinner. The restaurant is surrounded by water and fountains (symbolizing the cosmic ocean???) and we have very nice tables (formica that looks like granite) and chairs. There is soft lights, bamboo and candles on every table. Very soothing! We had Cordier Sauvignon Blanc Bordeaux from France that was OK, but sweet and lots of water. I had the fish salad with green beans, lemon grass, peanuts and lettuce which was very good. Bill had lemongrass chicken with coconut milk and rice. It was a great spot, we may come back again.
So far the people at the airport, museum, tuk tuk and hotel speak English very well.