St Patty's Day - Bagan Style
Bagan, Myanmar
March 17, 2009
This was the BEST breakfast ever!!!!
They had brown bread - I have not seen that since we left Canada. They have white bread that is slightly sweet and tastes a bit odd with eggs. They also had peanut butter! Already it is perfect! They also had honey (another thing that we have not seen so far), strawberry jam, kaya marmalade, fresh fruit, grilled bananas, eggs, lime, pastries like croissant and danish (new too), bacon and pancakes (more firsts), chicken sausage, black sticky rice, mohinga, fried rice and other Chinese dishes. It was ALL good! Plus it was outdoors on the river front. Too bad it has been so hazy and we are not able to have a good sunrise (or sunset either the whole time there)
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U Kyat is our tour guide for the day. His brother is our driver. Their family own two horse and carts.
We went to a 12th century Temple - Dhammayazika Paya which is pentagonal in shape. Most have four entrances instead of five. Four represents the four previous Buddhas. This one has five to include the future Buddha. We were able to climb up the outside of the Temple and take a couple of pictures. The view is very good. U Kyat explained that the circles in the inner archways are to represent the wheel (teaching of Buddha). Also it is common to see lotus flowers because it was said that where Buddha walked, lotus flowers would spring up. The older paintings on the walls dating back to the 11th century are only black, white, yellow and red. The later paintings around the 13th century also have blue and green.
Our guide also explained that Hindu figures appear in the older temples (around 11th century) as there is some influence before Theravada Buddhism was widely practiced (and still is today)
Young Monks doing dishes at the Monestary
. If you are a good Buddhist and are pure of mind, when the next Buddha arrives you will be able to go to heaven at that time. Buddha only arrives once every 5,000 years... He also explained that the last Temples were built (and not all completed) during the 13th century prior to fleeing the monguls.
We also learned that when there are many small stupas together, they have all been built by one family. Only the larger stupas were built by Kings.
Almost every temple has a new top. During 1975 there was an earthquake that did lots of damage. Many of the foundations were OK, but the tops have been completely rebuilt with new bricks. You can tell the difference very easily. The new brick is much brighter and cleaner.
Leimyethna (Laymyethna) Pahto was built in 1222 has well preserved frescos
.We were able to see the use of blue and green in this "newer" Temple. The work here was unfinished, as people were fleeing the mongols during this time.
Aside from the earthquake, the Temples have been destroyed by tomb raiders prior to WWII. We were able to see large cuts that had been made in the middle of some carvings where people were trying to find treasure.
Payathone (Payathonzu) has three interconnected shrines (stupas) that dates to the 13th century and is also incomplete. There are sikhara (structures that are influenced by Khmer). Some ancient writing is still visible here (Pali). The shrines contain influences from Mahayana or Tantric also, Chinese or Tibetan. There are paintings of a Hindu like woman (we bought a painting the next day) and small Buddhas everywhere. Here our guide and a painter were giving us the hard sell. He had lowered his price from $40 to $15 because he has not sold anything for weeks (we paid no more than $8/2 the next day)
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Nanda Pyiri Nya (Nandamannya Pahto) dates to the mid-13th century. It is small and has beautiful frescos and a destroyed seated Buddha image. It is famous for the "Temptation of Mara" painting. Young females are trying to tempt Buddha during his meditation while on his way to enlightenment. Also at this site there is a monastery. We were there after lunch and the young monks were doing chores - dishes and sweeping. We were able to go into the caves where they live and meditate. It was very neat.
Tayok Pyi Paya (Tayok Pye Paya) was nearby and had an incredible view of many stupas and Temples. Sadly from here we can see a new ugly government constructed observation tower that was built 3 years ago.
We took the dirt road back toward Old Bagan. It was a tough go for our young horse (3 1/2). We had lunch at the Myanmar Buffet - there were between 15 and 20 dishes that were set in front of us. I tried the dried fish (it was OK, very salty, like chips), but did not try the grubs (GROSS)
Green Beer for Everyone - Bagan
. We had chicken, lamb, pork, lots of veggies and relishes, soup, fried peanuts, fermented tea leaves and bananas.
We (and the horse) took a break from 2:15 until 3:15. We went for a quick dip and saw Jerome and Florence. They decided to splurge and are using the pool for the afternoon (only $3 for non-clients). I read and Bill chatted with an older couple from Vancouver. An older American lady told us that she is running out of money and is going to try to get to China by land. Bill does not think this is possible...
After lunch we had a laquerware demonstration. It is a multistep process with drying time between each step. Some of the laquerware are made from bamboo only, bamboo and cotton or horse hair. The good quality has 14 coats and will not chip. He repeatedly threw pieces on the ground to illustrate this. There were many styles, patterns and colours to choose from. We could have even bought a motorcycle helmet or guitar! We wanted a small bowl with a lid but he would not go from $23 to $18. He would only accept $20, so we walked away.
We are near the Guest House where the girl is doing our laundry. These teenage girls are mobbing us again. This time they want my bracelet, earrings and hair clip. I said "no" a time or two and then "nooo". One girl said "nooo" back. I was not impressed and reminded her that mocking me was not going to make me buy anything. They are also asking for Canadian pins because I gave one to one of the girls yesterday...
Nan Paya was damaged by the earthquake. It is supported with steel posts. The carvings here are in the sandstone bricks. There are two figures with lotus flowers that look Hindu. They are ogre like, four-headed creatures with lotus flowers coming out of their mouths. According to legend, Shiva employed these creatures to protect the temples, but since they were so ferocious Shiva had to trick them into eating their own bodies, then fed them lotus flowers to distract them from eating worshippers. It appeared that this Temple had been looted (holes cut into the ogres).
Ma Nu Ha (Manuha Paya) was named after the Mon King from Thaton who was held captive here by King Anawrahta. There are three seated Buddhas and one reclining Buddha; they all seem like they are in a Temple that is too small. This was done intentionally to convey the stress and discomfort by the captive King. Reclining Buddha signifies the act of entering parinibbana (final passing away). The way the head faces represents different things (North - entering Nirvana, West - Common people's questions are answered, ect.)
There is an outdoor Temple here that is dedicated to the nat (spirit) of Mount Popa, Mae Wanna and her two sons Min Lay and Min Gyi. Mae Wanna's husband was Muslim and was employed by King Anawrahta. Her two sons were murdered at Taungyone and the King built a Temple there in their honour.
Our last Temple of the day was Ananda, built around 1090 - 1105. It is our guide's favourite Temple. It is considered to be one of the finest, largest, best-preserved and most revered Temples in Bagan. The Buddhas at the North and South ends are originals made from Teak. The ones at the East and West are replicas. When you are up close to the Buddha, his face looks serene, when you walk away his face looks like it is smiling.
There are three rings around the Temple in which you can pass. One ring was for royalty, one for monks and the third for commoners. At the entrance to each there is a statue that has a hand held out to remind commoners to stop.
We were able to see the original teak doors to one entrance. We have not seen any teak doors at any of the other Temples, they are all gone.
After the Temple was constructed, there was an echo. In order to fix this they had to carve out niches. They contain the story of the life of the Buddha or Buddha images.
Our guide also told us that Buddhists never apologize (Buddha did not). Where you are in this life (rich or poor, man or woman, healthy or ill/crippled) is because of what you did in your previous life - you get what you deserve. If you have a disfigured face, it is because you killed someone by hitting their face. I don't think I like that very much. I like the way that Jesus was forgiving and healed the sick...
It was getting late and we asked if we could be taken to Naung U instead of the hotel. We are going to try to meet Sarah and Catherine at 6:30. The driver's other brother brought us a fresh horse and cart, so ours could have the evening off.
We went to New Park and no one was there, but the manager directed us to our rooms, so we sat out front and waited. Catherine arrived. She had been ill all day. Celestine showed up (we were in front of her room) and she had been biking all day.
We went to have green beer across the street. Bill had brought food colouring from home for this day! Celestine did not want to try it, but Bill forced her and Catherine was too ill! We had lentil soup, tomato salad, charcoal chicken (Bill loved it), is was a simmering pot of food over coals.
We had a nice visit and were home at 10.